08-13-2017, 08:31 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegad44
This seems to be pretty typical with Toyota and Lexus....just had my wife's driver's door, and front passenger door lock actuators replaced a couple of months ago, they both went out within 2 weeks of each other, a 2013 ES300.....both replaced under our extended platinum warranty. Which brings the question, your rig is 2 years old, and the warranty doesn't cover that?
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Don't have extended warranty, and I'm at 53k, so I don't think it would've been covered. I could be wrong, but even if it would've been covered I didn't have to wait 2 hours at the dealership!
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08-15-2017, 04:19 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbumpus11
I didn't have to wait 2 hours at the dealership!
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Neither did I.....
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08-15-2017, 09:36 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Thanks for doing this! I'm going to attempt the passenger side door soon. I've already had two go out. One was fixed under warranty but I'm past that now.
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08-19-2017, 02:41 PM
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#19
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Location: San Gabriel Valley
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For those of you who want a cheaper option than buying a new unit from dealer.. the 03-08 Toyota Solara door locks are the exact same ones. With the exception of the length of the cables which you can swap over.
I took mines out attempting to repair it, got frustrated with lining it back up and grabbed one from a 06 Solara and it worked perfectly. Might be same as other toyotas too, but the solara was the one I tried.
You can get new ones on ebay with a lifetime warranty
Door Lock Actuator Motor Front Right Dorman 931-411 fits 03-08 Toyota Solara | eBay
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10-01-2017, 08:42 PM
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#20
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Location: Coquitlam, BC
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great write up & I bought one of those little motors to repair my 2014 driver's door. - no problem changing everything out and took about 50 minutes. Now I have a problem - keyless everything works just fine - so that is progress. But with the key the locks won't lock if already unlocked and won't unlock if already locked. I took everything apart and put back together ok I thought but clearly not! Only thing I can think of is the shaft from the back of the key slot with the plastic cross on the end not engaging with cross slot on the actuator body - any ideas how to mate these up? Or is it something else altogether? Thanks for any advice.
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10-01-2017, 09:20 PM
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#21
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Than You!
Thanks for putting in the awesome work, and time that it took to write this up! Mine went out on my driver door (02 limited) and have been in need of replacing it but just haven't had the time to get it done. Will get done soon!
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10-01-2017, 10:03 PM
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#22
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ok - so I answered my own question - there is a 20mm or so blanking grommet on the door jamb - I took this off loosened the torx screw behind it & this let the lock barrel come out - I could then thread the shaft back into the actuator - took 3 minutes - hope this saves someone time in the future if their keyed entry doesn't work after an actuator change! Feel a bit stupid but then doing your own car repairs is always a humbling experience at times.........
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10-02-2017, 04:44 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simonpk
ok - so I answered my own question - there is a 20mm or so blanking grommet on the door jamb - I took this off loosened the torx screw behind it & this let the lock barrel come out - I could then thread the shaft back into the actuator - took 3 minutes - hope this saves someone time in the future if their keyed entry doesn't work after an actuator change! Feel a bit stupid but then doing your own car repairs is always a humbling experience at times.........
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You made me check, and turns out my own "fix" didn't get that part right either! Did you do this with the door panel off, or did you just back it out, then screw the torx back in while everything was "operable"?
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12-02-2017, 11:29 PM
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#24
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Real Name: mo
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I really appreciate you guys putting up all the pictures and information. I am just wrapping up my install. I'd say this took me about 3 hours. Removing the door took about 15 minutes, the actuator only took about 15 minutes, but putting the stupid panel back together...holy crap. Anyways i just wanted to say thanks. Also, i had the same issue with the actual key lock not catching the barrel. You do not have to take the panel apart.
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01-20-2018, 05:54 PM
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#25
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This is why this forum is indispensable! Great writeup.
I just did both driver and passenger doors on my 2013. Toyota could do better with selection of these motors. So glad I found this forum soon after I got my 4runner.
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03-13-2018, 10:22 PM
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#26
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Great write-up mbumpus11...
and very valuable to our extensive library! 'Best to you',
rig, cheers!
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03-21-2018, 07:10 PM
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#27
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So I did this and it fixed the issue. However, my Interior door handle doesn’t work to unlock or open the door. I’m assuming it’s an issue with the cable, I just don’t know where.
I’m hoping I don’t have to open anything up again
Any ideas ?
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03-21-2018, 07:38 PM
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#28
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Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems
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03-25-2018, 04:09 PM
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#29
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Thanks for this post. Called Toyota and they quoted $550 to replace the actuator. This is a better option for sure.
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03-25-2018, 09:34 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riser
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems
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I had to take my door apart multiple times cause one little piece would be out of place and I’d be rushing and not notice.
Nothing in your picture jumps out to me as being out of place. Look at the OP’s pictures and compare it to what you have now. Also, put everything together outside of your vehicle and pull on the cables by hand to make sure everything works as expected (lock and unlock, unlock by pulling the interior handle cable).
If you can put up another picture with more light and a different angle and I’ll check again if anything looks out of place, or maybe someone else will notice something.
Good luck.
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